Okay, we’ve all heard of the Dalai Lama. Who is the Panchen Lama? He’s the #2 guy in Tibetan Buddhism, another one of those lama leaders who gets reincarnated every time the last one dies.
By tradition, for hundreds of years, the Dalai Lama ruled from Lhasa, while the Panchen Lama ruled from Tibet’s second city, Shigatse. It is west of Lhasa, across a range of mountains, in a different region, with its own customs and dialect. Shigatse has its own version of the Potala Palace, on a hill overlooking the city, though it is not open for visitors.
The current Panchen Lama, the one recognized by the Chinese government, is 20 years old; he spends most of his time in Beijing. However, by chance, he is in Shigatse now! We didn’t get to see him, though. All it meant for us was that we didn’t get to stay in the Shigatse Hotel as planned but had to stay in a place called the Tibetan Lung Hotel, which I DO NOT recommend. Our toilet broke, and the shower leaked all over the bathroom floor. This, however, was an exception – the hotel in Lhasa was excellent, five-star, with a safe in the room, which makes the traveler’s life easier.
Still this hotel had a cute sign next to our beds:
"Wishes Mr. The Good Night"
The major site in Shigatse is the Tashilhunpo Monastery. Despite the unpromising name, it is fantastically beautiful.
There were few tourists and many Tibetan pilgrims worshipping here: prostrating before the statues and walking around the holy sites, spinning their hand carried prayer wheels. These people were very friendly and photogenic!
Serendipity: as we were touring, we heard some singing. In a big courtyard, near a flagpole, a group of about twenty women, all dressed in Tibetan style, held hands and began a traditional circle/line dance. It was charming! Seemed spontaneous and cheerful, not something put on for the tourists, and they did not ask for money afterwards. One of our tour members danced with them. The highlight of the day.
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