Monday, June 28, 2010

Shanghai: Sights and tastes

 

The Bund, Shanghai’s most famous site, is a riverfront walkway with the best views of Old and New Shanghai. From it, you can see the European-style buildings dating from the 1920s and 1930s lining the West Bank, as well as the distinctive skyscrapers across the Huangpu River in the newly developed area along the East Bank, called Pudong. We visited it in the thick mist/smog, so the views were not the best. But at least we got to walk along this beautiful walkway, which was closed for renovation when Emily came here in February.

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Shanghai’s subway is so modern and easy to use it puts New York to shame. A recently completed line connects both of Shanghai’s airports to each other and to the center of the city, People’s Square.

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On Saturday, Ms Hu Wenjing drove us, in her sister’s Chevrolet, to Chongming Island, north of the city. Last year, the Chinese completed an impressive tunnel-and-bridge connecting Chongming to the city. The tunnel, which goes under the mouth of the Yangtze River, is nine kilometers long, and goes to another small island. The bridge, ten kilometers long, connects that island to Chongming Island – a suspension bridge soaring high above the river in a sight that is awe-inspiring even in the smog.

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Chongming Island is mostly farmland, very green, with modern smooth highways. Ms. Hu took us to Dongping Forest, a parkland of trees planted as early as 1958, now used as a playground for Shanghai citizens eager to get some fresh air and greenery as an escape from crowded, concrete city life. They call it “Shanghai’s oxygen.”

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After touring the park, we had lunch at a village home. Local villagers attract visitors from Shanghai with genuine village bed-and-breakfast experiences. We had fresh fish and local vegetables at the home of a farmer named Chen.

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We’ve had some terrific food here in Shanghai. The most famous local dish is a steamed meat dumpling, tender and delicious, served in bamboo steamers. They also have soft, fluffy buns, fresh fish in sweet sauce, shrimp in tea leaves, a veggie called water bamboo, and pork chunks. Paul’s favorite restaurant is Din Tai Fung, a dumpling place in the fashionable night spot of Xintiandi, a walkway lined with sidewalk cafes and upscale shops.

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We’ve also enjoyed a Chinese foot massage – which feels so good it’s almost impossible to describe! Especially after walking all over Expo.

Tomorrow we will have lunch with a Shanghainese novelist. I hope to ask her about possible publishers for Daughter of Xanadu!

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